Blog January 2024 - Brazil

Stella Maris, Salvador da Bahia, Brazil

I spent the first few weeks of 2024 in Salvador, Brazil, and there's no better way to start the year. Summer, sun and beaches, and as I've already been to Salvador a few times, I didn't give much thought to what I was going to do. At first I wanted to go to Rio de Janeiro, but then I decided against it. My goal was definitely to take surfing lessons, as I had wanted to try it out last time. At that time I didn't feel ready, physically and mentally, but physically I wasn't in top shape this time either ;) I decided in favour of the Stella Surf School as I had already seen this school last year and it was very close to my accommodation.

Carla Circenis (the surf school owner) said I should do a rest day as it was exhausting. I just thought to myself "huh, I don't feel tired at all". Nevertheless, I took her advice. The next day I knew what she meant 😂 I had sore muscles in places where I hadn't even realised you could have sore muscles. However, I knew that I would go surfing again because I enjoyed it so much. Even if I hadn't surfed the right wave yet. Soon after a few more surf lessons, I was able to paddle into the open water and surf from there.

After the morning surf lessons, I either spent the day at the beach or went into town or to the mall. In the late afternoon I read the book "Return to The Cafe on The Edge of The World" at home. The book was so exciting that I almost couldn't stop. The funny thing was that what happened in the book also happened to me in real life. There were chapters about surfing and the different steps involved in surfing. To reach your goal you have to go out into the open water, even if it looks scary. You go out and get washed out again by the waves. You have to keep going until you are far enough out. You look out for opportunities (waves). You decide which opportunity (wave) you want to take and start to align yourself and start paddling. The opportunity (wave) comes closer and you paddle like it's a matter of life and death. You then take the opportunity (wave) and enjoy it, even though you know that it will crash on you at some point. When you are back on land, you look back and are grateful that you had the opportunity.

It really is true, surfing is very similar to life.
WOW, these holidays have really done me good physically and mentally.
After I got back I started swimming and stretching regularly.
So that I'm fitter and prepared the next time I'm on a surfboard.


The next surf (short) trip is already booked and it's off to Lisbon.
To Carla Circenis' stepson Ian Costa, also a professional surfer. I'm looking forward to it :)

See you in the next blog.